Whale Shark Encounter

Floating in the dark blue ocean about an hour offshore of Isla Mujeres, my mask strap broke, leaving me blind to what was below. Three of us were about 50 feet from the boat, as I grabbed mask and snorkel before they sank to unthinkable depths.

We'd been awaiting this moment a long time, thwarted in prior journeys because of weather or the worrisome changes in behavior of the magnificent animals we'd come to see.*

Encountering a Whale Shark is at the top of most divers' bucket lists, and ours no less.

Biologists don't know much about these giant fish that reach lengths of 35 feet or more. True sharks, they feed off microscopic sea life by sifting it from the tons of water siphoned through their gills as they swim open-mouthed through the ocean.

Recent articles in popular magazines and the controversial display of Whale Sharks by the Atlanta Aquarium stimulated interest in these gentle, spotted behemoths about which so little is known.

So naturally, my dive buddies and I decided to jump in the water with them to see if what little we do know is true. I wasn't about to let this chance be thwarted by something as simple as a broken mask strap.

Holding the mask tightly against my face with one hand, I stuffed my now useless snorkel in my swim vest with the other as I waited for what I hoped would be my first encounter with the largest fish in the ocean.

Earlier that morning, we'd been briefed on what to expect. Wildlife conservationists recognize the need to protect these animals, important not only ecologically but economically to locales such as the tiny island of Isla Mujeres, just off Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula.

Tourists have discovered this Island's most famous natural resource, leading to the necessary development of "rules of engagement."

is not allowed with the sharks, and snorkelers must wear inflated vests, which I expect is as much for the protection of the Whale Sharks as swimmers.

Chasing, shouting at, or otherwise harassing the sharks is absolutely forbidden. Snorkelers must stay at least six feet away from the animals at all times, and are limited to two in the water at a time with each boat's divemaster.

That assumes, of course, that an encounter with these sharks will even happen.

Our first indication of their presence were the half dozen or more boats on the horizon as we approached the feeding grounds.

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Whale Shark Encounter

My first thought, oddly enough, was "Oh Dear, I'm going to be closer than six feet." But as gracefully as any living thing the size of a school bus can be, the giant fish veered deftly to my left, sliding majestically past me, as I bobbed awestruck at



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